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Highlights
Quito
The capital itself is one of the wonders of South America; the whole of Quito's colonial heart, with its whitewashed Spanish architecture, churches and squares has been declared a cultural UNESCO World Heritage Site. At over 2,850m (9,000 feet), Quito has a permanently spring-like climate, and is dwarfed by the mountains that surround it. The city is built on the flanks of volcano Pichincha, and has an old centre surrounded by a modern metropolis. There are both small places to stay with character and modern luxury hotels. The cuisine is surprisingly cosmopolitan.
The Northern Andes
Near Quito is the extinct crater of Pululagua, which is now an ecological reserve, and apart from spectacular views, has many cloud forest species such as orchids and bromeliads. Further South is Pasochoa, also an ancient volcano, and nature trails take you into one of the few remaining high mountain forests. Cotopaxi national park lies further south along the "Avenue of Volcanoes". The train ride down the Devil’s Nose switchbacks is highly popular. In the north of the country other craters, such as Cuicocha are filled with turquoise melt waters, making beautiful lakeland scenery for walking. For those who want quiet country retreats we recommend a stay in a hacienda (colonial Spanish ranch).
The Indian Markets
The people of the Andes, the dignified Quechua Indians, present a colourful spectacle in their ponchos and hats. It is a joy for both sides to bargain over the exquisite handicrafts at huge open-air markets. Ecuador is famous for hand woven textiles, leather goods, native paintings and is the real home of the Panama hat. Otavalo market is the largest and most famous. Here locals sell anything from a woven rug to a gold chain. The women wear intricately embroidered blouses, and smart blue skirts and shawls. The men are in immaculate white trousers, blue poncho and long ponytail. Other markets such as Saquisili, Pujili and Zumbahua exhibit local flavours.
The Southern Andes and Cuenca
The southern city of Cuenca is the most unspoilt city in Ecuador, with its colonial centre and tranquil charm. The pace is unhurried, and the many churches and squares are lovingly preserved. It is a hub for exploring the only big Inca ruin in Ecuador, Ingapirca and the Cajas National Park. Further south lies Podocarpus national Park where only recently a new bird species was discovered. In the far south is Vilcabamba, a city with an agreeable climate and allegedly long-lived inhabitants.
The Amazon Jungle
Ecuador is one of the places where the upper reaches of the Amazon rain forest is easily accessible, either by a 45 minute flight, or a day's drive over the Andes. From there motorised canoes will take you to begin a magical journey to the primary forest. For keen birders there are over 500 species to see, for botanists there are thousands. You will venture on relaxing canoe trips through the lakes, the smaller tributaries and flooded forest. Here one gets much closer to wildlife, such as monkeys, sloths, tapirs, macaws not to mention the anacondas and piranas. We can arrange stays in the comfortable Amazon lodges. The lakes and rivers are a majestic sight and part of the experience are dugout canoe rides.
The Cloud Forest
For those with less time who want a feel for the tropical forest, just a couple of hours' drive from Quito are Cloud Forest reserves such as Bellavista and Mindo. This is forest on steep sided mountains that survive by the afternoon mists. The trees are shorter than the jungle giants, but are laden with epiphytes like orchids, bromeliads, mosses and lichens, and are home to toucans, parrots and myriads of colourful tanagers.
The Galapagos Islands
Here you can swim in clear, turquoise waters with sea lions, penguins and angel fish, walk through Booby colonies, observe the antics of dancing Albatrosses, play with turtles underwater and see giant tortoises and scaly iguanas like creatures from another age. To Darwin they were "eminently curious'', today they have been dubbed "a living laboratory of evolution" and declared a World Heritage Site.
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