A Journey Through the Heart of El Salvador
With shimmering coastlines, ancient ruins, and warm hospitality, El Salvador is emerging as one of Central America’s most exciting travel destinations. Thanks to significant improvements in safety and infrastructure, the country is experiencing a tourism renaissance. I was lucky enough to be invited to explore the very best of what El Salvador has to offer.
A Warm Welcome in San Salvador
The journey began in the bustling capital of San Salvador. I had a cheap and cheerful meal in the Mercado Municipal – the local market. The fish dish was one of the best meals of the whole trip. El Salvador calls itself ‘Land of Hosts’ so I attended an evening by my hosts, the tourist board. The inspiring networking session was about new discoveries, hotels and culture, though jetlag began to get the better of me.
Colonial Charm in Suchitoto
The next day we headed to the storybook town of Suchitoto, a colonial gem just two hours from the capital. Cobblestone streets, whitewashed buildings, and the elegant Santa Lucia Church set the scene for a day of discovery.
Suchitoto was founded by Spanish conquistadors in 1528 and served as the Spanish capital until San Salvador was established in 1545. It still has a pioneering ambience; locals ride by on horseback with cowboy hats.
First stop was Los Almendros de San Lorenzo, a lovingly restored colonial boutique hotel, provided both style and serenity – complete with a leafy courtyard and cool plunge pool to escape the midday sun.
As a caffeine addict, I enjoyed a hands-on coffee-making workshop at Casa de la Abuela, where Jose Rene Melara demonstrated the “chorreado” brewing method. This is the original pour-over method, like a ‘sock’ of coffee. It takes its name from the traditional wooden brewing device (a chorreador) that holds the cloth bolsitas used as filters.
Later I met Doña Laura, Suchitoto’s last remaining traditional cigar maker, who showed her skill with warmth and pride. The other local craft is indigo dyed clothing. I purchased a tie-dyed tee shirt that would not have been out of place at Woodstock.
The day ended with a leisurely birdwatching boat tour on Lago Suchitlán. I observed snowy egrets, neotropic cormorants, white pelicans, and a little blue heron. There were various ducks and coots in the shallow waters. I would recommend doing this excursion in the early morning or at sunset, as the afternoon sun made it challenging.
I joined travel colleagues for sunset dinner at Casa 1800, a boutique hotel featuring local cuisine and countryside views. With its artistic soul and old-world charm, Suchitoto was a highlight – the perfect place to begin a deeper journey through El Salvador.
Santa Ana: Culture, History, and Sacred Views
Next up was Santa Ana, known as El Sucursal del Cielo – A Branch of Heaven – and home to the striking Catedral de la Señora Santa Ana, a Neo-Gothic masterpiece glowing in creamy stucco.
Our guide arranged access to the cathedral’s bell towers, offering sweeping views of the city below. Devotion was on display inside too, where hopeful parents leave flowers and baby photos beneath the statue of Saint Anne – patroness of mothers and children.
Later, the group journeyed west to the ancient Maya ruins of Tazumal, where a massive pyramid stands as a silent guardian to a once-thriving civilization. Wildlife also made an appearance – including an iguana and the elusive turquoise-browed motmot or torogoz, (El Salvador’s national bird), flaunting its jewel-toned feathers and racket tail.
The Ruta de las Flores: Coffee, Crafts & Culture
A road trip took us along the Ruta de las Flores, a scenic road winding through flower-filled villages and coffee country. In Ataco, we toured the Carmen Estate Coffee Mill, where vintage machinery still processes some of the region’s finest beans.
A tasting of Pacamara coffee – a prized local variety – left me buzzing with appreciation for El Salvador’s coffee culture. I learned the difference between anaerobic and regular fermentation, and sun-dried or oven-baked beans. The anaerobic coffee is fermented with part of the cherry pulp in sealed tanks, giving a unique fruity flavour.
We visited Casa de Graciela, a boutique hotel brimming with nostalgic charm, and enjoyed a hearty barbecue lunch at Jardín de Celeste, surrounded by colourful masks and colonial décor.
The evening meal was something completely different, a lesson in making pupusas, the country’s unique street food. These are stuffed maize pancakes, with all kinds of fillings, but traditionally pork, beans and cheese.
In Nahuizalco, a local artisan, Don Arcadio, led a hands-on wicker weaving class. The day ended with a sunset swim in volcanic crater Lake Coatepeque, followed by a restful night at Cardedeu’s lakeside retreat.
Adventure Awaits: Hiking Volcanoes and Maya Heritage
El Salvador’s volcanic landscape took centre stage the next day, with a hike up the majestic Santa Ana Volcano. On the way up I had striking views of other nearby volcanos, black Izalco and green Cerro Verde. As the country’s highest peak (2,381 metres), Santa Ana offers both a physical challenge and incredible reward – views into a bubbling turquoise crater lake. The volcano was shrouded in mists that came and went making it look otherworldly. Safety is a priority here, and all hikers are required to take local guides due to shifting weather conditions – a smart way to explore and support the community.
Later, our group visited Joya de Cerén, often called the “Pompeii of the Americas”. This UNESCO World Heritage Site preserves the everyday lives of ancient Mayan farmers, frozen in time by volcanic ash – a unique window into the region’s past.
El Tunco: Surf Vibes, Sunset Magic, and Coastal Cool
No visit to El Salvador is complete without a stop at the country’s most iconic beach town – El Tunco. We headed out of San Salvador for the 45-minute drive to the coast. I was ready to soak up the sun and laid-back energy of Playa El Tunco, a beloved destination for both international surfers and Salvadoran weekenders.
Just 45 minutes from San Salvador, El Tunco is named after the famous rock formation offshore that resembles a pig (“tunco” in local slang). But what draws people here is the consistent Pacific waves, chilled surf culture, and hip vibe that makes this place feel like a hidden coastal haven.
Whether you’re a seasoned surfer or just here to watch the pros from a beachside hammock, El Tunco delivers. Surf schools dot the shoreline, offering lessons to beginners and gear rentals for those looking to chase the legendary waves of Surf City – a tourism initiative that’s brought global attention to El Salvador’s surf scene.
Beyond the surf, El Tunco pulses with life. By day, visitors browse handmade jewellery, sip smoothies from colourful cafés, and lounge beneath thatched palapas. By night, the town comes alive with live music, bonfires, and beach bars serving up pupusas, cold beer, and sea views.
Visitors can enjoy a sunset dinner at one of El Tunco’s clifftop restaurants, where the sky turns gold over the crashing surf – a perfect end to an epic day.
A Perfect Finale: Volcano Views & City Strolls in San Salvador
On the final day we spent the morning reconnecting with nature at El Boquerón National Park, located right in the crater of the San Salvador Volcano. Just a short drive from the city, this peaceful highland park offers a refreshing escape into the cool mountain air. Well-maintained trails wind through lush forest filled with native trees, wildflowers, and birdsong. Along the way, we stopped at scenic viewpoints overlooking the crater – El Boquerón, which stretches 1.5 km across and drops dramatically into a smaller crater known as “El Boqueroncito.”
It was great to stretch our legs and reflect on the beauty and biodiversity that make El Salvador so special. The elusive turquoise-browed motmot made another brief appearance. At the car park I was enchanted by murals of local wildlife.
In the afternoon, I headed to San Salvador’s historic centre, where the rhythm of city life beats strong in the capital’s heart. Walking through Plaza Barrios and Plaza Libertad, we admired street art, bustling markets, and restored colonial architecture.
A highlight was visiting the National Palace, once the seat of government, with its grand halls, intricate tilework, and soaring archways – a reminder of the country’s layered history and resilience. Nearby, the striking Metropolitan Cathedral.
Inside the Cathedral we paid our respects at the tomb of Óscar Arnulfo Romero, the Archbishop of San Salvador, El Salvador, who is regarded as a martyr for his outspoken advocacy for the poor. Romero was assassinated in 1980, whilst celebrating Mass. His tomb is a pilgrimage site, for those who admire his commitment to social justice, and his stance against the violence that plagued El Salvador during the civil war.
Wandering through the historic district it was all very different today, we took in the sights and sounds of Salvadoran daily life – street vendors calling out their snacks, children laughing, a busker playing a flute. I went for a drink in the atmospheric La Dalia bar, the sort of place Hemingway would have been at home. An emotional end to a week filled with awe, adventure, and discovery.
El Salvador: The Hidden Gem That’s Ready to Shine
One thing became clear: El Salvador is ready for the world’s spotlight. With improved safety, a welcoming spirit, and a tapestry of unforgettable experiences – from misty volcano hikes, colonial towns, artisan workshops, coffee tastings to sun-drenched beaches – this small but mighty nation has everything a traveller could dream of. El Salvador proved it’s more than ready to take its place on the global tourism map. Whether you’re an adventurer, a culture lover, or simply seeking beauty off the beaten path, El Salvador is ready to be discovered – and now is the perfect time to explore it. There are few other tourists at present which is half the charm.
All photos copyright David Horwell (except the Mot-mot by Russell Maddicks)
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